What is Genuine Leather – Types of Leather Used in Work Footwear

When choosing work boots or safety gear, finding high-quality materials that give you the confidence that you get products which are reliable, comfortable and long-lasting. When it comes to leather products, the terms “genuine leather”, “full-grain leather”, and “top-grain leather” seem interchangeable, so it’s easy to make the mistake of thinking they have the same premium qualities. In this article, we’ll put the spotlight on genuine leather – what it really is and how it differs from other real leather materials. We’ll also discuss the types of leather used in work footwear.

What Genuine Leather Actually Means

Genuine leather is sourced from real animal hides, more often from the lower layers. It usually undergoes heavy processing compared to higher-quality options. It’s “real” leather, but it isn’t the premium or top-grade choice. To illustrate, a pair of work boots labelled as made with “genuine leather” can have as little as 1% of leather or be made of scraps of leather bonded together.

When it comes to quality, genuine leather goods come in last in the list of real leather options. In the leather grades hierarchy, full-grain leather reigns supreme when it comes to quality, durability, and water resistance. Top-grain leather comes next, with genuine leather coming in last.

How Leather is Made and Graded

Genuine leather products are made from the hide of animals. Cows are the most common source of animal hide, although others (such as sheep, goats, and crocodiles) can also be used. The animal hide consists of several layers and is split to produce different types of leather. The top layers (top grain and full grain) are expected to have much better quality than those in the middle, where genuine leather usually comes from.

The hide is preserved using drying or salting to protect it from decomposing before the processing steps. It is then mechanically or chemically treated to remove unwanted components such as hair and fat layers. It then undergoes tanning, with chemical tanning agents that enhance the leather material’s durability, heat and water resistance, and overall stability.

The finishing phase is responsible for further boosting the leather’s mechanical and aesthetic properties. It improves on flaws that may still be present after the tanning process. Mechanical finishing is done through washing, stretching, pressing, ironing, and drying. Meanwhile, chemical finishing involves dyeing, coating, and bleaching.

Types of Leather and Their Key Differences

Full-grain Leather – This has the highest level of quality and durability among all leather types. It is sourced from the top layer of the animal hide and has gone through the least amount of processing, with no chemical treatments.

Top-grain Leather – This material also comes from the top layer of the hide but has undergone some chemical treatment. It is less durable and feels softer than full-grain leather.

Split Leather – Typically comes from the middle or bottom layer of the hide. It is lower in quality and weaker than full-grain or top-grain leather.

Bonded Leather – This is composed of leather and leather dust that are fixed together, resulting in a lower-quality but more affordable leather option.

Synthetic Leather – Made from man-made materials such as PVC and PU, this material is produced to imitate the appearance and qualities of real leather. It is also referred to as “vegan leather” because of the absence of animal by-products.

Key Properties of Leather in Safety Footwear

Leather quality and properties directly affect the performance of safety footwear. Premium-quality leather work boots, such as full-grain and top-grain options, have higher resistance to abrasion, heat, chemicals, and water compared to lower-quality materials. Typically, these high-quality leather boots are also more breathable, making them ideal for all-day use.

Genuine Leather in Work Footwear

Genuine leather is typically used in low-cost work boots, offering a more affordable option to premium-grade materials. It creates a flexible upper that allows more freedom of movement, although it’s not as reliable as higher-quality leathers in terms of resistance against abrasion, heat, chemicals, and water. In addition, coated genuine leather boots are less breathable, causing the feet to sweat and heat up during long shifts. In some work boots, genuine leather is used only as decorative panels, with most of the uppers made of full-grain or top-grain leather for superior quality.

Durability vs Premium Leather

Work boots made with premium leather last longer as they resist damage much better than genuine leather boots do. Top-grain or full-grain boots are ideal for challenging work conditions that require superior protection and increased durability. On the other hand, genuine leather work boots are best suited for more casual, less demanding settings – such as office or retail workplaces.

Easy to Maintain – Genuine leather is simple to clean and maintain, unlike top-grain or full-grain leather, which requires multiple steps for cleaning and conditioning.

Lifespan and Cost Comparison of Leather Types

Expected Lifespan of Leather Types in Work Boots

The lifespan of work boots is affected by the type of leather and the frequency with which the footwear is used. High-end leather work boots typically come with higher price ranges that are justified by the premium qualities.

Leather for Different Work Environments

Heat and Water Resistance Rating (Work Environment Suitability)

Full-grain leather has exceptional durability and high resistance to moisture, with heat-treated options being best suited for high-temperature environments. Meanwhile, top-grain leather work boots are also durable and are comfortable for long hours of use. On the other hand, work boots made with genuine leather are affordable and suitable for short wear times.

Maintenance and Care Tips

Maintenance and Care Recommendations

Maintenance of genuine leather is straightforward and requires minimal effort. It just needs to be wiped with a damp cloth regularly, with genuine leather work boots only requiring the application of a light conditioner monthly to prevent cracks.

How to Identify Genuine Leather

Texture – Genuine leather typically has a synthetic-looking surface that feels smoother compared to full-grain leather’s natural roughness. The texture of genuine leather work boots is usually uniform throughout, unlike top-grain or full-grain leather boots that have uneven patterns and/or imperfections.

Weight – Full-grain leather boots are generally heavier compared to genuine leather work boots, which are more on the lightweight side.

Firmness – Work boots made with top-grain or full-grain leather have firm, dense structures – a marked difference from genuine leather boots that typically feel more flexible.

Aging – High-end (full-grain and top-grain) leather work boots develop a beautiful patina over time, creating a unique appearance that can’t be recreated by genuine leather. In addition, genuine leather tends to deteriorate more quickly over time.

Smell – Top-grain and full-grain leather work boots have a rich leather scent that’s much stronger than the one given off by genuine leather work footwear.

How Leather Ages Over Time

Over time, high-end leather develops a patina, creating a surface that looks richer and darker (for full grain) and has more character compared to the original appearance. These changes are the result of the leather material’s long-term use and exposure to moisture, sunlight, natural oils, and other environmental factors. Patina adds a unique element to top-quality leather products, including work boots.

Which Leather Should You Use for Work Boots?

Summary Table – Which Leather Should You Choose?

Choosing the type of leather for your work boots should be based on your priority. Go for full-grain leather if your main goal is superior durability, protection, and a beautifully aged appearance over time. If you’re looking for strong, comfortable work boots that don’t cost as much, choose top-grain leather. For an affordable option that still looks like leather, genuine leather is the way to go, especially for light use. Finally, choose synthetic leather if you prefer an animal-free option and don’t mind the reduced protection.

Responsible Leather

Leather production involves significant environmental impact, including deforestation and water contamination (by chemicals used in the tanning process). If you want to enjoy the benefits of leather work boots but in an eco-friendly way, you can choose products that are made responsibly. Responsible leather is produced using sustainable practices, resulting in minimized impact on the environment, sustainability in sourcing, and eco-friendly processes. Look for work boots with certifications from organizations such as the Leather Working Group (LWG), which follows strict audit standards for the assessment of leather manufacturers.

Personal Testing Experience

We have worn and tested, literally hundreds of leather work boots – from steel toes, to moc toes to western ones. There are a few that stand out in terms of thheir leather quality. The Wolverine Floorhand Boot was built with waterproof leather that blocked liquids, and the Timberland PRO Pit Boss Boot’s thick leather upper didn’t absorb liquids (unlike most non-waterproof leather boots..), even though it wasn’t waterproof. For non-safety work boots, Western boot styles stand out. The Ariat SportCool VenTEK Boot and Ariat Dynamic Work Boot – both made of premium full-grain leather – have truly exceptional quality. Finally, the Thorogood American Heritage Boot has a top-notch leather upper – it is a great option for those who are looking for moc toe boots with high leather quality.

Conclusion

Genuine leather is “real” leather – but it’s important to note that it’s not a premium choice. It’s ideal for casual, light use, and if you’re looking for an affordable option for work footwear. However, if your job demands a higher level of protection and durability, your best choices are work boots made of full-grain or top-grain leather that can keep up with heavy, long-term use.